Hotel América Rua de Santa Catarina 1018 T223 392 930, Wwww.hotel-america.net; 15min walk from the centre or bus #701/702/703 from Mercado do Bolhão. Well-regarded mid-range choice with bright and relatively spacious a/c rooms, plus 24hr reception and private underground parking. There’s also a bar and what the hotel optimistically calls a “winter garden” and we call a plexiglass conservatory with plants.
Castelo de Santa Catarina Rua de Santa Catarina 1347 T225 095 599, Wwww .castelosantacatarina.com.pt; 15min walk from the centre or bus #701/702/703 from Mercado do Bolhão. A turreted folly of the most romantic kind makes a superb in-the-city retreat. Rooms aren’t grand or expensive, but are furnished in period style and are perfectly comfortable, while breakfast is eaten in the lush azulejo-tiled gardens. There’s parking too, and good off-season discounts.